Saturday, January 26, 2008

Ford Mondeo 1.8TD 1996









This site is more concerned to the Diesel Mondeo than that of the Petrol Engine. of which there are plenty of sites devoted to this subject.The Mondeo model was changed around 1996 which and superseded the MK1.
Although there is a Haynes manual available to the diesel Mondeo it does not cover the MK2 although some similarities will be found between the MK1 & Mk2 the manual really only deals with the Mk1.Take for instance the change of the cam belt or the injector pump belt there are a number of differences between the Mk1 and Mk2 Mondeo diesel these will be the the pulley gears on the camshaft or the Injector fuel pump and the crankshaft. Also you have the timing belt cover this cannot be removed on the MK2 TD until the steering pump pulley has been removed.
Changing the timing belt is tricky for the total novice to carry out and unless you have some engineering experience it is advisable to allow a professional to do this as the work involved in removing certain ancillaries as well as the time involved in doing so and the fact that a mistake could be made in the camshaft jumping a tooth if not locked properly could have disastrous consequences. You would only want to take this side of the engine apart once.

It is also advised
that you make suitable tools available for the process this not only includes spanners and sockets etc but the correct locking tools which prevent movement of the Crankshaft, Camshaft, Fuel Injector pump. As well as making enough room around you to carry the job out competently. Make sure that you have a suitable container available for all the bolts and nuts that might be removed a magnetic bowl is a good idea.
Make a note of the rel
ationship that the belts are guided before removal any new belts fitted make sure that they run in the correct direction. Before starting any work start the engine and note which direction it turns in. The locking crankshaft pin you will need to insert will be found just below the Fuel Injector pump which is a 10mm bolt be careful not to lose it when removed.
When all pulleys are
moved into position and engine locked at TDC(Top Dead Center) it might be a good idea to mark all pulleys with a dab of white paint or Corrector fluid or nail varnish. Any belts that are going to be reused make sure you mark on the belt the correct rotation.
If the bottom pulley should need removing mark its center so it goes back in the same way.
If you have to renew the cam belt you just as well do the injector pump belt also as it would be the same am
ount of work if you had to ever replace this. Also check the water pump as it is now easy to fit a new one than ever having to do all this work again should the pump fail at a later stage.Draw diagrams take photographs keep a note of what goes where and how.I will be adding pictures shortly so until then i wish you the best of luck, Remember don't rush it if the job takes 24 hours then so be it it is'nt a race.

3 comments:

wer_ner said...

Your post was very helpful.
I have successfully replaced the belts.

Now we notice that some valves are hit.
Can u give me some good tips to disassemble the cylinder head?
Where can I find plans for the engine?

Thanks,

Dead Of Night/My Beautiful Ealing said...

Hope you got it sorted after bro.. The trick is to make sure that everything is locked up so nothing can move.. Once your belts are on and tensioned turn the engine over by hand two revolutions to make sure belts are seated correctly.. If before removing the belts if you cannot find the timing marks mark up your own.. Just make sure all the gears that need to be lined up are marked exactly before you remove any belts! make sure your locking tools are in place!!!

gyb said...

Very useful you have saved me some money.
Thank very much.